The sheer size of the sea wall is proof of the battering Dysart takes from the North Sea. The light here is magnificent and attracts painters and photographers. The houses alongside are known as Pan Ha. They are ancient and were restored in the 1960s. Their wonderful terracotta tiles are stunning set against the whitewashed walls. The Saltire flaps from the church tower above.
Walking between the houses, and climbing, you can spy dates carved into sandstone lintels. These are dates older than countries. These houses were built before Australia was discovered or white men set foot in America.
The harbour was blasted or cut from the cliff. Countless fishermen’s boots have worn and polished the cobbles. Bacon sizzles, coffee percolates, drifting from the cafe in the harbourmaster’s house. A leaf-kicking, scrunching walk through the cornflake mulch of Ravenscraig park has brought us here.
We’re in no hurry to leave, breathing the salt air deep and ducking the spray. The view is panoramic, from the Bass Rock to Leith, across the Forth, and right along the Fife coast.